How it all went wrong in El Salvador by budgetbucketlist

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travel · @budgetbucketlist · (edited)
$27.92
How it all went wrong in El Salvador
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<p><em>“Have a look at your memories of today”…</em> we all know that Facebook-function. Sometimes it has the power to make you smile, sometimes it induces a well-meant how-the-hell-did-that-time-slip-away-from-me-awareness. This morning I was reminded of an experience in El Salvador that apparently happened only a year ago, although it feels like I lived 5 lives in the meantime (I kinda did). <strong>Yeah… El Salvador, a country everyone had warned me for, which I nevertheless explored all alone with a handful of amazing experiences as a reward… but where it also completely went wrong in the end.</strong> Sometimes you read things back and you can’t believe it’s your life we’re talking about, or a real situation to begin with. But it’s too screwed up to make it up, I’m not <em>that</em> creative, so here it goes:&nbsp;</p>
<p>As a bit of variation in between the Patagonia-narratives…&nbsp;</p>
<h1>My little hell in Santa Ana, El Salvador. &nbsp;</h1>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c7ecd6f65.jpg" width="507" height="338"/></p>
<p>After all the success stories in El Zonte… &nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c7fe0f595.jpg" width="810" height="1080"/></p>
<p>San Salvador… &nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c80cb624b.jpg" width="810" height="1080"/></p>
<p>and Suchitoto… &nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c80f3ed10.jpg" width="810" height="1080"/></p>
<p>… I unfortunately didn't have a happy end in El Salvador. My stay in Santa Ana was one dark, endless tunnel that slapped me in the face with reality. The reality of sickness, suffering, ignorance, corruption, fear, neglection of social care, intolerance towards homosexuals, extortion and murder.</p>
<p>It started all well. After a long search I tracked down my host Hernan <em>(pseudonym) </em>who I met via Couchsurfing. <strong>Instead of the media-stereotype tattooed gang member my host appeared to be a - tadaaa - gay hairdresser.</strong> After presenting my private room and refreshing me with some cold drinks, I could take place in the barbers' chair. I mentioned what travelling did to my hair and showed my dried out bird nest... "<em>Say no more."</em> Before I knew it I was hanging with my head in a sink, Hernan scrubbing my hair full of pastas and serums. &nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c8a6ad0f6.jpg" width="1410" height="1080"/></p>
<p>Like a true artist he dribbled around me, making some magic happen with his straightener, hairdryer and scissors. All the while he told me about his boyfriend with whom he had a relationship for 3 years (a gorgeous young boy being part of his group of friends), but no one knew. <strong>Homosexuality is 'not done' in El Salvador, you could lose everything: your job, your friends, your family, respect... </strong>Half an hour later another woman stood up. I've never looked so well-maintained in 1,5 years of travelling, I kind of got used to the flipflop-no-make-up-wild-coupe look. Well, there's a reason he is a national hairdressing guru, giving classes country-wide.&nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c882234d7.jpg" width="480" height="604"/></p>
<p>That night he invited me over to have dinner and drinks with his friends. That night it went wrong.</p>
<p>Around midnight I started throwing up. Not just once, but about 20 times. On top of that the toilet was my best bud. When my body was completely empty I started throwing up blood. I had a high fever and saw colors that were not there. I lay down in bed where the host of the party wanted to take care of me. He tried to do that in a very creepy way. <strong>He kept on touching me... my head, my hair, stroking my body.</strong> I had no strength to scream or push the perv away and he wouldn't leave. I kept on asking for help and to see Hernan, but like everyone else, he was too drunk to do anything. &nbsp;</p>
<p>I passed out and when I woke up I thought I was alone. <strong>After a while I heard breathing.</strong> The host of the party was still in the room, sitting at the end of the bed on a chair watching me. I knew I had to get away, I didn't feel safe. It was 5am and finally everyone was done partying, but Hernan was too hammered to talk. I got offered a ride back by the girlfriend of someone's friend. I explained to her how I felt and that I needed to go to a hospital or first aid (I was still throwing up and running to the bathroom every 10 minutes). She promised me she would take me, but she lied. They brought us to Hernan's home and laughed about my request: They said I was drunk and needed to sleep. I can't describe how frustrating it feels knowing that I was the only one that hadn't been excessively drinking. I could cry, but I had no choice... I can't walk alone on the streets of El Salvador at night.&nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c8a4c7fd8.jpg" width="1600" height="1069"/></p>
<p>The day later was the proof of how wrong the girl was. I could hardly move and slept all the time, simply passing out. Every half an hour I woke up to puke or defecate out the water I just drank. Yes, I didn't have anything in my body anymore, so when I drank water my body got rid of it within 2 minutes. I was dried out, reaching a level of thirst I never experienced before. I tried to eat, but I couldn't. <strong>The pains in my belly were so intense I screamed.</strong> I wanted to inform friends or family but Hernan's house had no internet and he was still passed out in his drunk delirium. With the little energy I had I searched for his keys and left to find a cab to the hospital… there were none. I walked like a drunk person, holding on to the walls, but I couldn’t get further than 1 street so I returned. Once back, Hernan left, locking me up in the house for the rest of the day, being paranoid about me opening the door for anyone. <strong>He would do the locking-up-thing for many days to follow, basically keeping me a prisoner in his own house.</strong> &nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c8af857b3.jpg" width="1446" height="1080"/></p>
<h2><strong>What I didn't know was that he was fighting a war of his own…</strong></h2>
<p>The next day again I woke up more tired than when I went to sleep. Hernan had repeated the previous night so it was impossible to wake him up. I stole his keys out of his pocket and went on a mission: reach the hospital, however long it would take. I had to be treated. I stumbled, couldn't talk, hit my head against things and had black-outs. <strong>No one helped, people just stared at me. </strong>They already stare at me when I'm just normally walking, there are no foreigners here, imagine how much they gaped at me right now. After what seemed an eternity I arrived at the hospital, but as it's Sunday they wouldn't let me in. I couldn't even reply to that, no breath or saliva left. I had to walk to the emergency help, the other side of the building. That cost me more than half an hour.</p>
<p>Once there a doctor asked me some questions in Spanish and filled in some paperwork. While he was doing that I looked around me. Is that a hospital? It looked like a dump. <strong>Crumbling walls, dirt everywhere, nothing like the sterile environment back home. </strong>He seemed to be helpful, but led me to a waiting "room" where I had to sit and wait for help... With the focus on WAIT, help never came. The doctors went out for lunch or something and didn’t seem to care that there were people suffering out there.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c9de79e8b.jpg" width="1440" height="1080"/></p>
<p>There were people with tuberculosis attacks and passing out on the floor, people coughing up blood in the bins, delirious people screaming hysterically and hitting themselves as psychiatric patients are sent to normal hospitals as well… but there was no one. <strong>Dead bodies were carried around in the corridor.</strong> I still had severe diarrhea, but the toilet had no water and no toilet paper. I asked at reception (holding on to the counter to not fall down), but they said I should go out to a shop and buy it myself. This is the health care in El Salvador. A guy who was waiting to be attended as well went out to buy it for me, a little bit of light in the darkness: Finally I could take a shit, apparently too much to ask. There was no running water to wash my hands, I wonder where or if the doctors even do that.</p>
<p>I kept on waiting, in a state in which simply sitting down is a challenge, throwing up in a plastic bag in my lap. After 3 hours finally a doctor came back. Slowly he started attending people. After 1 hour he was still helping the first one, more stamping paperwork than actually doing something. There were 8 people before me. I went to the reception desk and asked if that's their definition of "emergency care". They shrugged their shoulders to sum up the entire attitude in this hospital: <strong>No one cares.</strong>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c9fcbfa58.jpg" width="1024" height="768"/></p>
<p><strong>I was even more exhausted after all this, but decided to do something the local people can’t do: pay for a private hospital.</strong> I dragged myself out until I encountered something looking like a private clinic. Finally, someone talked to me. Now I must say my Spanish is quite ok, but all these medical terms are not part of my vocabulary and also the shattered state of my brain didn’t facilitate the process. I’m not blaming myself though: not one educated doctor could speak the tiniest bit of English (which is also not my native language) nor copy my last name from my passport lying right in front of them, so you can estimate how reliable medical university degrees are here. I managed to explain it somehow though and before I knew it I was having a needle in my arm for a blood test and filling up little "boxes” in the bathroom. I got taken to another room where I received a bunch of (very painful) injections. After that I passed out for 2 hours with all those cables in my body. Once conscious I got presented the monster bill together with my results: &nbsp;</p>
<h2>Intoxication by a bacterial infection, severe food poisoning, advanced dehydration problems and something in Spanish about some substances in my blood being low, but no one could translate it for me. &nbsp;</h2>
<p>So the girl who didn't want to bring me to the hospital was in fact the direct reason of my sickness: she prepared the food that intoxicated me. I picked up my medication and started walking the road to better health.</p>
<p><strong>That’s how it goes here: If you have money, your life counts.</strong> If you don't, you can drop dead. That's at least what those people in the public hospital did. F*ck the poor. Just let them work for $1 an hour and ask their 3-month salary for medication, sounds like a fair business. The beautiful harvest of capitalism, the cancer of humanity.</p>
<p>The days that followed the image in the mirror changed: <strong>The circles under my eyes almost touched the ground, my face looked like one of those anorexic models in the magazines and my bones were sticking out of my hips.</strong> My nose started itching and I had severe sneeze attacks, as my dog allergy now also came to the surface. Because screw me. Why not give it all at the same time? I decided to sadly sit out my time until I had the strength to travel again.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3c9ed6de22.jpg" width="1066" height="800"/><em>Here</em>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Entertained by my fever hallucinations that kept on coming back and my best friends <em>suero</em> (rehydration liquid), loperamide (anti-diarrhea) and pediarol (curing my intestines). Eating 4 spoons of plain rice every day, more was impossible. As I didn’t seem to get better I decided to escape the country sick anyway. I had enough. I still needed to visit the Santa Elena volcano, Ruta de Flores and Parque Nacional El Imposible, but I didn't care anymore.&nbsp;</p>
<p>I wasn't the only one who escaped. Someone else did for real. The last night my host Hernan came into my room. <em>"Stephanie we need to talk... Conoces la palabra extorción?"</em> Extortion, yes I know that word, that's what the gangs of San Salvador do to get funds: force innocent citizens to pay outrageous amounts of money in exchange for their life.</p>
<h2>&nbsp;<em>"Mira, they came a year ago and I had to pay them $40.000...</em> ($40,000!!!) <em>Two times this week when you were sleeping they came back, fully armed. They want even more this time. This is money I don't have. I'm going to Guatemala with you, they will kill me here, very soon."</em> &nbsp;&nbsp;</h2>
<p><img src="https://i.imgsafe.org/3ca002628d.jpeg" width="1800" height="1080"/></p>
<p>And so it went... <strong>In the darkness of the early morning, without telling anyone, he left his homeland, friends, partner, dog, salon, house and family to never return.</strong> Against his will and carrying only 1 bag. And all of a sudden I had no problems anymore.<br>
&nbsp;<br>
<em>Until today I’m still in touch with Hernan. He lives in another country and uses another name. He can never go back to Santa Ana. </em>&nbsp;</p>
<h1><strong>Until we meet.</strong></h1>
<p><a href="www.budgetbucketlist.com">www.budgetbucketlist.com</a></p>
<p>Photo sources: <a href="http://www.istockphoto.com/illustrations/el-salvador-flag-wallpaper-background">1 </a>- <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-esxJ4mdd4a0/Tp54mItnAEI/AAAAAAAAAGA/dHNWKiDNuqo/s1600/SAN+SALVADOR+DE+NOCHE.jpg ">2 </a>- <a href="https://hiveminer.com/Tags/bandage,finger/Interesting ">3</a> - <a href="http://historyofjournalism.onmason.com/2016/04/13/running-from-death/ ">4</a></p>
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vote details (268)
@fulltimegeek · 
It's hard to believe that a "civilized" society can put a price tag on someone's life. It truly shows how sick humanity currently is.

Your story reminded me of the near death experience (NDE) Howard Storm had when his stomach ruptured while on a school trip in France. He had a life threatening injury and wasn't operated on for 10+ hours.

Here is a video of  his testimony:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xT0LbPPOqnE
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@budgetbucketlist · 
That makes me so sad :( I know, it can be shitty like that... but next blog I will focus on the bright side again ;)
👍  
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@steemtrail ·
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Hello @budgetbucketlist, 

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vote details (119)
@extremedistaste · 
Holy shit, excellent post! What an incredible story. I'm glad you made it out safe.

The saddest part is that the citizens who live there have nowhere to escape to. It's astounding to see the differences in healthcare.
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@budgetbucketlist · 
Yes it for sure was an eye-opening experience. During my travels I did meet people from this country that had to flee it as well, same goes for Venezuela. But indeed, sadly not everyone has that opportunity. And even if they have, they are likely to be received in their 'guest countries' as unwanted foreigners. I followed the refugee 'crisis' that was going on in my fatherland and I was embarrassed to see how my countrymen reacted on people who needed help.
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@extremedistaste · 
May I ask where you are from? Also, I cannot imagine how hard it was for Hernan to drop everything and leave, even though his hand was forced.

I feel the same in regards to some people's political views regarding immigration here in the United States. Without getting into political debates, I find it hard for me or anyone to justify turning away refugees from other countries who need an escape from the atrocities of their homeland.
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@mrosenquist · 
In the U.S. we complain about a lot of "1st world problems" but don't understand how much of the world lives, suffers, and dies.  We have so much, yet are fast to complain, believing the world owes us better.  The generations before us fought so hard for us to have something great and we take it for granted.  Glad you made it out safe.
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@budgetbucketlist · (edited)
It's not only the US, it happens in every country where they have more than food and health to worry about. Every time I'm in a 3d world country a block certain people on my timeline haha, can't stand to read the complaining about trains being 2 minutes too late, bad hair days or waiters that didn't smile as much as they wanted when being confronted with the other side of reality.
👍  
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@mrosenquist · 
Agreed!  Most don't travel and see the broader spectrum of how the world actually is.  It is far too easy to stay in a microcosm and complain about petty things from a comfy chair.  Keep posting and stay safe!
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@screenname ·
Re: How it all went wrong in El Salvador
<p>This post has been ranked within the top 25 most undervalued posts in the second half of Jan 09. We estimate that this post is undervalued by $12.17 as compared to a scenario in which every voter had an equal say.</p> 
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@hkannelmae · 
Ohhh wow, girl. That is an insane story. You are lucky to be alive.
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@budgetbucketlist · 
Yeah well, the real victim of this story is definitely not me :S
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@englishtchrivy · 
@budgetbucketlist oi meid, dat klinkt  heftig, kom naar huis.. hier is koud maar dan ben je thuis en veilig - mis je het water hier niet?  gewoon vanuit het kraan lekker en schoon.

Maar, in ieder geval, ik wens je toch een safe trip.
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@budgetbucketlist · 
Haha, waar is thuis? Ik heb geen huis ;) Ik hou van m'n vaderland, maar heb er een dusdanig groot gedeelte van m'n leven doorgebracht dat ik daar niet meer wil wonen. Ik wil eerlijk gezegd nergens wonen omdat ik overal wil wonen, dus trek ik van plek naar plek ;)
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@englishtchrivy · 
@budgetbucketlist echt waar? 
geen huis - dus je bent echt nu een nomad - okay 
stoere meid, veel plezier dan - Ik hoop dat je meer van de aardige mens daar ontmoet :)
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@mindmotivation · 
Hey Stephanie, this story is just crazy and unbelievable. "Ich habe mit dir mitgefühlt." I'm travelling as well and I'm since almost 4 weeks in Santa Ana. That's why this story is even more intense. Because I'm here now. Thats so crazy and shows me at every place you can make different experiences. It depends which people you met and how you feel at the moment. For me, luckily, until now I have a really positive experience from Santa Ana. Im not saying that those things not happening right now, just saying, until now I was lucky not to see/experience them.  Actually Santa Ana brought me to Steemit. Met this taiwanese dad from  Venezuela. He had to escape from Caracas because of the bad situation there. He got robbed in his house 3 times... with guns... he told me about digital currencies... and also told me about Steem. So after researching I ended up here.. Im not a blogger or something. Im still creating myself but can imagine to write about some insight in my travel, in my life. Also met a guy from China who is bloggin in WeChat. The people reward him after they have read his articles. If they liked it the will pay him via WeChat. It's the future, i like it. So they can encourage people to keep posting good content. People appreciate the  work itself.  And the concept of Steemit its kind of similiar, as far as I unterstood until now. Im not sure how I will use Steemit. But its a wonderful plattform.. maybe I will start talking about my personal progress in my travels... from 12years office job to a 7 weeks holidays which ended up in more than 15months travelling and still going on... idk yet... still figuring out how life works for me. anyway, sorry for that long comment. Its my first to get in touch with Steemit. How I found this article, I just search for El Salvador in the Search bar=) Keep doing what you are doing. Had a short visit on your webpage. Its hard work to get this far. So respect for it and if you still like, keep doing it! Herzliche Grüsse aus Santa Ana. Ich spreche nicht so viele Sprachen wie du, aber Spanisch reicht aus in El Salvador ;) Que le vaja bien!
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@urbanist · 
It was the water.  Human feces.  I was in the Peace Corps there.  Most of the countryside uses latrines and it flows into the water.  I had some tested where I lived.  Despite the extortion, which "yes!" is super scary and real (!) El Salvador is one of my most favorite countries in the world.  It just takes some time.  I hated my first year, but now go back frequently.  Sorry to hear about your friend.  If anybody else wants to go to EV: simply go to El Tunco. You'll be happy you did. It's an international bubble of paradise.
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@crimsonmoon · 
I have also lived a hell in this damn country.
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