awesome....

![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQXUFVAmPkJXkjBYMkKbRGcB67vDiy3pj4tnKy1V73EaY/image.png)

Ah, I know how that feels! Gashed feet and what not belongs to ocean life. There's always something sharp SOMEWHERE WHERE WE CAN'T SEE IT AND SLOWLY AMPUTATES US ALIVE

> Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.... 

Well there are pros as well as cons of sports but I think the pros exceed the cons, these small scratches matter no more when you are into a sport whole heartedly.
**The adrenaline and stress of an adventure are better than a thousand peaceful days.**
I agree upon thid well said by Paulo Coelho. 

That's a beautiful looking your foot photography, I appreciate your life.
best of luck my dear friend....

>The adrenaline and stress of an adventure are better than a thousand peaceful days. - Paulo Coelho

That is perfect. 
How I yearn for an adventure right now

Courage is essential in sports
You are a brave man and play a very dangerous sport indeed
Surfing evil is fantastic and very tempting
Well done, my friend

That's a great nature story..i appreciate your post and personally I watching sports always..
Thanks for sharing and discuss about sports..
Keep it up..

This type of post is always my favourite..
This is natural  type of post 
without sports is my favourite.
I appreciate this post..
Thanks for share..

> If you've ever taken that one deep breath after having been too long under water, you'll perfectly got the point. If you ever felt that urgent need to quickly go find the surface of the water in order to refill your lungs with life-sustaining oxygen, then you'll know how to appreciate being alive.
👆

**That part make laugh at myself so hard,  because it is still part of the fear i have till today, fear of not getting to the water surface on time just catch that life saving breath.**

In this sad world of ours, sorrow comes to all; and, to the young, it comes with bitterest agony, because it takes them unawares. The older have learned to ever expect it. I am anxious to afford some alleviation of your present distress. Perfect relief is not possible, except with time. You can not now realize that you will ever feel better. Is not this so? And yet it is a mistake. You are sure to be happy again. To know this, which is certainly true, will make you some less miserable now. I have had experience enough to know what I say; and you need only to believe it, to feel better at once.

I can feel your feelings.
I hope you will come round soon and go ahead.
Blessing to you @surfermarly

Oops she did it again ^^

I find your life very interesting, you are so athletic, I like it a lot as you take all things with humor! I loved your blog

Who did it? One tooth shark?

Try not to bleed too much in the water. That is the scent sharks smell from a mile away. 

Agree with you on adrenaline sports. I still get a buzz out of doing all sorts of hyper-sports. Love to ride my BMX cruiser. And I met with a group called the Pensacola Slow Ride. But, I kept jumping off curbs and ridding aggressively, not riding slow like the group is supposed to do. And well, they made rules for their group specifically to keep me from getting too radical. 

Really took it as a badge of honor that at my age of 51, my riding was too radical for people 20 & 30 years younger than me. 

![28113852973_7e0ddc77af_k.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmfHus6g54Gmys6QCqKtKWAp6g88hMw51mHhZWektH1sxw/28113852973_7e0ddc77af_k.jpg)
<b>I admit it's a radical bicycle. And I think my obsession with BMX cruisers has a lot to do with my adrenaline addiction.</b>

Also have my share of surf injuries. Got slammed into a reef once in Okinawa. And the injury was infected with coral cells. I ended up using an abrasive pad to get rid of the infection with some peroxide. 

These days, I make sure I warm up before I go into the surf. As the Gulf of Mexico is very inconsistent with surf, I do not go that much. But, when I do, I stretch and warm up for at least 1/2 hour before I get in. I made the mistake once when I was in the 40's of not warming up. And when I did a cutback, I strained muscles in my legs.

wow this is really amazing

IT IS A UNIQUE AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE WITH ADRENALINE TO 1000 .. GOD WILL CONTINUE BLESSING YOU AND CARING FOR YOU IN EACH STEP THAT DES ... SUCCESS AND WISDOM

'Surely  hope that your foot is feeling better.  "Your talent is God's gift to you.  What you do with it is your gift back to God."  Leo Buscaglia

Awhh! Espero que te recuperes pronto!

Saludos ;)

Think positive: If it had been a shark, the foot would be gone now :-)

no doubt those scars have been worth it

ohja diese Verletzungen kenn ich nur zu gut. Hab mir mal auf Bali am Riff den ganzen Fuss aufgeschnitten. 

Get well soon!!

You are just a fantastic surfer girl!!!

I love this post, Marly! Great attitude. Way to press on! Thanks so much for your inspiration and sharing this. We can almost call you super Marly, as well as surfer Marly, because of your attitude... :)

![836607960319860736.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbRu2VXDSvigLLFzUebkjZ73BnuccTy95GASqJ5JZtmsh/836607960319860736.jpg)
<sup>source: <a href="https://www.minds.com/PositiveSynergy">PositiveSynergy</a></sup>