Ulog 20: More Serious Bagging in Glen Etive! by natubat

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· @natubat · (edited)
$29.12
Ulog 20: More Serious Bagging in Glen Etive!
<center>http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stag-thumbnail-2.jpg</center> <br/>The weather has been so dreadful recently that it's difficult to find a reasonably dry day for heading up to the mountains. But last Friday looked mostly dry with occasional bursts of sunshine, so I decided to return to Glen Etive and climb two more Munros: Ben Starav and Beinn nan Aighenan.

This was a big walk, which would take at least 10 hours. With the nights drawing in, and sunset at 6.45pm, I would need a very early start. I decided to camp in the glen – my first ever solo wildcamp!

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-502 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Starav-and-Aighenan-map.jpeg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

I was hoping to reach Glen Etive before sunset, but I was so busy organising my gear and my food that it was almost 7pm before I left Glasgow! I would be pitching my tent in the dark.

During the long, dark drive up Loch Lomond, to Bridge of Orchy and Rannoch Moor, I felt increasingly nervous. Was I crazy, driving to a remote, dark spot to pitch my tent? At least I'd have the comfort of my car nearby!

I had to drive very slowly along the single-track Glen Etive road, as there are lots of deer in the area. I saw a couple of them by the roadside as I drove. People often camp by the roadside in this area in summer, but I saw no tents or campervans, even when I reached the car park for Ben Starav, 10 miles down the glen, which is usually jam-packed with cars at weekends.

I found a grassy spot at the edge of the car park, and pitched my tent, using my head torch and the interior lights of my car. I'd bought a very warm sleeping bag the day before, and the temperature was pretty cold, though nowhere near as cold as <a href="https://steemit.com/mountains/@natubat/theforcanridgemyfirstbighillwalksincesprainedankleandmyfirstmountaincamppartone-8ai20awdno" target="_blank" rel="noopener">my previous wild camping trip, a thousand metres up on a mountain top</a>!

The skies looked spectacularly dark and starry, with The Plough and the Milky Way prominent, but I felt too cold and tired to indulge in stargazing.

I was <em>really</em> tired, so it didn't take me too long to fall asleep, despite the eerie sound of stags bellowing in the distance, and occasional owls. The loudest noise was the sound of fast-flowing rivers crashing down the mountainsides. It was louder than motorway traffic, but relaxing, so it didn't disturb my sleep.

I told myself I would wake up at 6am, and I woke up at 6am on the dot. It was raining, and I had to cook my breakfast using the shelter of my car boot door.

I got my tent packed up and was ready to go by 7.40am. By then, the rain had stopped, and the sun was just starting to come up.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-449 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/1-Beinn-Maol-Chaluim-Bidean-and-the-two-Bookles-early-morning.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>L-R: Beinn Maol Chaluim, Bidean nam Bian and Buachaille Etive Beag.</em>

After a walk-in of about half an hour, I started to climb up the long, steep shoulder of Ben Starav. Luckily the rain stayed off, and when I stopped for breath, I was rewarded with beautiful views down Glen Etive.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-450 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/3-River-Etive-and-mountains-from-higher-up.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

Looking down on the top of Beinn Trilleachan, 839m, which I climbed earlier this summer, gave me an idea of my altitude. I could have checked my altitude on my GPS, but I like to try and hone my navigation skills!

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-451 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/7-Beinn-Trilleachan-bathed-in-beautiful-warm-autumn-morning-light.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>Beinn Trilleachan</em>

The views over Glen Etive and Glencoe became more spectacular the higher I climbed.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-452 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/11-Gorgeous-view-of-mountains-along-the-River-Etive-from-higher-up.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-453 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/12-Lovely-one-of-Beinn-Fhionnlaidh-and-Sgor-na-h-Ulaidh-from-higher-up.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

A ptarmigan appeared. These birds are only seen at high altitudes, and they are experts at camouflage.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-454 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/13-Ptarmigan-camouflaged.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>Can you spot the ptarmigan?</em>

The climb was quite gruelling, even though I usually enjoy steep climbs. At last, the peaky summit ridge of Ben Starav came into view.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-456 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/15-First-glimpse-of-summit-ridge-of-Ben-Starav.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

At this height, the mountains of Glencoe and Glen Etive looked like a scene from <em>Lord of the Rings</em>.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-457 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/18-Tolkein-esque-one-of-the-Glen-Etive-mountains.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

The summit peak looked very steep and foreboding!

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-459 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/20-View-up-to-the-summit-of-Starav.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

Stob Coir'an Albannaich, one of the neighbouring mountains that I'd climbed the week before with my friend Karen, looked dramatic with its broad, steep sides.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-460 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/21-Lovely-one-of-Stob-Coiran-Albannaich-warm-autumn-colours.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>Stob Coir'an Albannaich.</em>

Beinn Trilleachan and Loch Etive below looked beautiful in the autumn morning light. It was a steep drop down to Loch Etive, so I stayed away from the edge!

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-462 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/27-Beinn-Trilleachan-and-Loch-Etive.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>Beinn Trilleachan.</em>

<div class="pull-right"><img class="alignright wp-image-463 size-medium" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/30-Sheer-cliffs-with-amazing-rocks-on-side-of-summit-169x300.jpg" alt="" width="169" height="300" /></div><br/>As I got closer to the summit, the route got steeper and more precarious, with jaggy cliffs at the left and a sheer drop to the right. I've done many ridgewalks and a lot of rock scrambling, and I generally have a good head for heights, but I felt more unnerved by the steepness on this mountain than on any others I can remember.

Maybe it was because I was on my own, and there was no one else around. I even considered the possibility of going back if the climb got tougher. Usually terrain that looks like a knife-edge from a distance feels broader and more comfortable as you get closer to it, and this was the case on Ben Starav, though there were a few moments when I felt quite nervous and took an enormous amount of care!

The rocks near the summit didn't look very stable from a distance. I felt as if I was approaching a delicately-balanced pile of rubble! But as I got closer to them, my confidence in their stability increased.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-464 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/31-View-up-to-summit-showing-part-of-sheer-cliffs.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-466 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/36-Rocky-summit.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/> <a href="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/35-Rock-pile-on-way-to-summit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-465" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/35-Rock-pile-on-way-to-summit-300x169.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="169" /><br/></a> <a href="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/37-Rocky-summit-tip.jpg">
<img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-467" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/37-Rocky-summit-tip-300x169.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="169" /><br/></a>

I was so relieved when the summit cairn finally came into view! Apart from anything else, I was quite exhausted! It was 11.35, so I'd been climbing for almost four hours.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-469 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/40-Summit-selfie-Starav-copy.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="687" /></center><br/>

Unfortunately just as I reached the summit, the clouds rolled in, so there were no summit views.

Walking along the summit ridge, which was much broader than the precarious approach to the summit, I did get one hazy view of the Etive hills.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-470 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/41-Hazy-pic-of-Etive-hills.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

The descent down the other side of the ridge was steep, but much easier than the way up. The first person I'd seen since the previous evening caught up with me, a fast walker who was also heading to Beinn nan Aighenan.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-471 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/45-Guy-who-overtook-me-on-way-to-Beinn-nan-Aighenan.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

I was just starting to realise how tired I was. I had done an 11 mile canal walk two days earlier and an indoor climbing session two days before that. I suddenly felt as if I was starting to slow down. And I was starving! It was time for lunch.

I found a nice sunny spot at the bealach to sit down.

Ten minutes into my lunch, the sky suddenly darkened and a squally shower blew in. How annoying! Though it looked quite dramatic.

&nbsp;

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-472 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/46-Rainbow-over-Sgor-na-h-Ulaidh.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

I got up wearily and continued on my way to the next Munro, Beinn nan Aighenan.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-473 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/47-Beinn-nan-Aighenan.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

This was a much easier walk, but I took care because you're much more likely to fall when you're tired. I had to walk down a further 160m before the ascent started. "False summits" are common on mountains, when just as you think you're getting to the top, another incline appears. Well, this mountain had a "false bealach". Just as I thought I was starting to climb up, a deeper dip appeared, which was annoying as I knew I'd have to climb up even further.

In fact, I enjoyed the 340m climb, and it was <em>much</em> easier than I'd expected. There were lots of large, non-precarious boulders to scramble up, and fantastic views along the way.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-475 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/53-Ben-Starav-in-the-sunshine.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>Ben Starav looked milder and less foreboding when bathed in the afternoon sunshine.</em>

There were beautiful views out to Loch Dochard, Loch Tulla and the Orchy hills to the east.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-476 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/55-Lovely-clear-one-of-Loch-Dochard-and-Loch-Tulla-and-Orchy-hills.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

To the south west there were gorgeous views of Loch Awe and the Cruachan range.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-478 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/56-Gorgeous-one-of-Loch-Awe-and-Beinn-Eunaich.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

I met the faster walker coming down Beinn nan Aighenan. He was on his way to do a third Munro, Glas Bheinn Mhor, one of the three Munros that me and Karen did the previous week.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-481 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/52-Sweeping-flank-of-Glas-Bheinn-Mhor.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>Glas Bheinn Mhor.</em>

The final 100m to the summit was a real slog, as I was so exhausted! Actually it was an easy climb with a good path – it was just my tiredness that was slowing me down. I kept having to stop and catch my breath! But it felt great to be getting closer to my goal, and also, despite my tiredness, this climb wasn't nearly as difficult as I'd expected.

The summit cairn was a beautiful sight!

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-482 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/57-Gorgeous-one-of-summit-cairn-Loch-Awe-and-sunbeams.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/><em>The summit of Beinn nan Aighenan with the Cruachan range in the distance and Loch Awe to the right.</em>

Some mountains you just bond with more than others, and this was one of them. I'll be back to do this one again sometime.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-486 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/58-Summit-selfie-Beinn-nan-Aighenan.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="750" /></center><br/>

<em>Beinn nan Aighenan was Munro number 94 for me! I was really pleased, but too tired to show it.</em>

I was treated to more spectacular views.

<center><img class="aligncenter wp-image-487 size-full" src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/59-Gorgeous-one-of-Loch-Dochard-Loch-Tulla-and-Orchy-hills.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="563" /></center><br/>

I didn't stay long at the top, as there was a cold wind, which blew in my face as I made my way back down. It was not a pleasant descent, as intermittent squally hailstorms blew in, stinging my face. I was very happy to reach the bealach again.
<h2>Stag party</h2>
Just as I started the 160m climb back up to the main ridge, I heard a particularly loud bellow from a stag, which must have been quite close. I'd heard distant bellows throughout the day, especially near the top of Ben Starav, as it's the rutting season, when stags try to out-bellow each other in competition for the attention of female deer.

I managed to spot the stag, which was walking near the top of Glas Bheinn Mhor, the mountain directly above me. I got my video out – unfortunately I had to zoom in quite a lot, so the film is a bit shaky. But you can watch the stag as he walks slowly and majestically, turns and apparently spots me standing below, gives a warning bark, and then walks on, emitting a long, loud bellow.

<a href="https://bit.tube/play?hash=QmbrPsvmFZFQE1t88hfTUgKnaQQWAvES5y6gYktWASKggm&channel=97584"> <img src="http://ramblingandscrambling.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Stag-bellowing.jpg">
<p>Click here to view video</p></a>

What a fantastic day! I was extremely tired during the long walk back to my car, and I stopped on the way to eat the rest of my lunch. It was after 6pm when I got back to the car. I had intended to camp another night and then do the "Ring of Steall", a round that takes in four Munros near Fort William, but I realised that I was far too tired.

I'm hoping to do the "Ring of Steall" this week, and Ben Nevis the next. But it all depends on the weather, and it's forecast to be atrocious for most of this week, with very high winds at times. I won't be taking any foolhardy risks.

So... watch this space!

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@cryptopie ·
$0.04
The scenery there is breathtaking @natubat
You are so fortunate to walk across those hills and mountainous tracts.
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@natubat ·
Thanks @cryptopie - it is beautiful, and I am very lucky. Glad you enjoyed my post.
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@tattoodjay ·
$0.03
WOW thats a long Hike but so worth it for those amazing views
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@natubat ·
Thanks @tattoodjay! Yes, it was a long hike and very enjoyable despite the tiredness towards the end.
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@snook ·
$0.03
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! is all I can say.....YOU keeping going and doing YOU!
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Aw thanks @snook! I must be crazy but I like it that way!
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@curie ·
$0.12
Congrats on a Curie vote!
Hi natubat,
<div class="pull-right">
https://steemitimages.com/DQmXgrYG8AKimJKRSu2urPB5SPcftN6GCGx2gVJJMwBkuTu/Curie%20Logo%2075px.png
</div>
This post  has been upvoted by the Curie community curation project and associated vote trail as exceptional content (human curated and reviewed).  Have a great day :) <br>
 
Visit <a href="http://curiesteem.com/">curiesteem.com</a> or join the <a href="https://discord.gg/G6RPUMu">Curie Discord community</a> to learn more.
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Thanks so much @curie :)
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@curie ·
Congrats on a Curie vote!
Hi natubat,
<div class="pull-right">
https://steemitimages.com/DQmXgrYG8AKimJKRSu2urPB5SPcftN6GCGx2gVJJMwBkuTu/Curie%20Logo%2075px.png
</div>
This post  has been upvoted by the Curie community curation project and associated vote trail as exceptional content (human curated and reviewed).  Have a great day :) <br>
 
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@stef1 ·
$0.03
Thank you for taking in such a journey, you are very tough and aim striving person. You reached what you planned to and you deserve my respect. The weather in Highlands varies it can changes quickly from been open sunny to rain without much notice of it. But the nature looks so amazing, the sky with dramatic clouds and valleys. By the way I found that bird ptarmigan, it is just in front of that grey with white spots stone and has the same pattern, looks like itself a size of pigeon. Wonderful diary and stunning pictures.
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Thanks @stef1 - really glad you enjoyed my post! And well done on finding the ptarmigan! 
The weather does change very quickly and unexpectedly in the Highlands. I did another walk today, but unfortunately didn't reach the summits I was aiming for because it suddenly went from dry and sunny to very windy with low cloud and poor visibility. Sometimes you just have to put safety first, especially as winter approaches. But even a failed walk helps my fitness :)
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@steemflow ·
$0.03
Perfectly planned, perfectly executed @natubat. Never thought you could be so good trekker. You achieved what you alwsyd wanted. Trekking all the way to top through the steep and unstable route is quite amazing. Thanks for bringing in amazing and pictursehque natural beauty. ....keep moving...steem on !

Posted using [Partiko Android](https://steemit.com/@partiko-android)
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Thanks @steemflow! Glad you enjoyed my post. A couple of years ago I never thought I could be such a good trekker either, as I was really unfit for a while! But it is so addictive when you get beautiful views and encounters with nature.
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@steemflow ·
Thats true @natubat passion moves us along....and exploring so many besutiful views cant be possible until you along with your passion....

Posted using [Partiko Android](https://steemit.com/@partiko-android)
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@delishtreats ·
$0.03
Congratulations on reaching your 94th Munro. How many of them are there in total? 282 I believe, or not?

It looks like a tiring but rewarding trip. I love being in mountains too. Oh, and that fake summit is so annoying. You feel like YES, FINALLY! And then, OH SHOOT! It's very demotivating as well. But you didn't give up and managed to reach the summit! Your photos are amazing. I've heard so much about the nature in Scotland and I will finally have to plan a trip there. I've heard that it's raining all the time so this is kind of keeping me from visiting it. But now I think it's beautiful even when it's raining. 

Thank you for sharing and good luck with the rest of Munros!
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Thanks so much @delishtreats! Yes, there are 282 Munros. You should definitely visit Scotland. You're from Switzerland, another mountainous country, so you'll love Scotland! May is usually the sunniest month, and early June, although rain can come at any time. And as you say, the scenery is lovely even in the rain!
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@steemitworldmap ·
$0.10
Hiya, just swinging by to let you know you're being featured in our daily [Travel Digest](https://steemit.com/traveldigest/@steemitworldmap/traveldigest340-v2gae4wxge). Please drop by to check out all the rest of today's great posts and consider upvoting the Travel Digest if you like what we're doing.
πŸ‘  ,
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@audreybits ·
$0.04
You really are a strong woman. I doubt I will ever go on mountain climbing alone not to talk about camping there. The views up there are really stunning and breathtaking, definitely worth it! It sure is a treat! You do have a high endurance level, you've definitely worked hard to achieve that.

Munro number 94? That's awesome

So sad the weather was too cold to let you enjoy the view of those stars which I believe were really beautiful. Well, maybe someday...😊

So the stag compete in that manner so as to attract the ladies, heheheheheh! Really funny. It really is awesome to see how animals behaive sometimes...
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Thanks for your lovely comment @audreybits! I think your strength grows a bit with each mountain you climb - they teach you things! And the views certainly do make it all worthwhile. 
I was terrified of wild camping before I actually did it, and now that I know I can, I want to do more! And I can't wait to watch the stars from the awning of my tent - when the weather is warmer! 
And yes, the animals are so amazing too when you see them. They definitely come closer when you're alone too.
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@audreybits ·
Oh, sure! With each obstacle we overcome, we grow! Those views definitely are one to look forward to, its like discovering a hidden treasure...πŸ˜€For how long have you been climbing? You seem to have developed a really deep love for it.

Wow! I am sure you are so happy that you did try it out...πŸ˜€well, you should do more of it. And yes to watching those stars...

Its so beautiful, yeah?
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@thesteemengine ·
$0.11
Congratulations! This post has been chosen as one of the daily Whistle Stops for The STEEM Engine!

<center>[![](https://ethandsmith.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/commentSTEEMengine.jpg)](https://steemit.com/@thesteemengine)</center>

You can see your post's place along the track here: [The Daily Whistle Stops, Issue 277 (10/10/18)](https://steemit.com/curation/@thesteemengine/the-daily-whistle-stops-issue-277-101018)
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@fitinfun ·
$0.03
Can you spot the ptarmigan? - No.

Does the fast walker speak to you as he walks by fast those two times?

You are brave! I am glad to see this through your photos, story and fantastic video, because I would absolutely never, ever do it myself!
πŸ‘  
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@natubat ·
Thanks @fitinfun! I'm glad you enjoyed my post. Hillwalking is so addictive. I started just doing long walks, because I had an underactive thyroid and could no longer run. Then I started huffing and puffing my way up small hills, then I graduated to slightly bigger hills, and at some point it just became addictive!
Ptarmigan are so clever. They change colour throughout the year, and somehow manage to blend in with their surroundings. I think you see more wildlife when you walk on your own.
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root_title"Ulog 20: More Serious Bagging in Glen Etive!"
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